November saw us flying to Tromsø in Norway to fulfil a longtime ambition to see the Aurora Borealis. I’d visited Scandinavia in when I stayed in Ljusdal, Sweden, but that was Midsummer and the opposite side of the solar cycle. This time dusk, not daylight, reigned.

There’s something very beautiful about twilight; not just the temperature of the light – the muzzy blues and drowsy mauves – but one is so used to the fleeting nature of it, that by the time you’ve really started to appreciate the moment, it’s gone.




This far North (the furthest North I’ve ever been) the twilight lasts for several hours, and it’s not long before it starts to play tricks on the eye and mind. There’s a charged sort of clarity to the landscape that you get with day-for-night scenes in films, like the shadows and edges are too sharp for such a late, fuzzy hour. But it can’t be; I look at the time and it’s only 3 o’clock in the afternoon, but every sense in my body ignores this fact and promptly initiates a midnight shut-down. Drinking a cup of coffee in a little wooden cafe nestled in the mountains and fjells is all I can do to stay awake.

This was the first time I’ve shot exclusively on digital; for practical reasons. If there was going to be any Aurora activity, I wanted to know there and then if the shot was successfully recorded – after all this was a rare opportunity. With the luxury of hindsight I would now have taken medium format film as well. The Nikon D200 is a nice bit of kit but I reckon good old-fashioned slide film is made for the light out there.

Taxi rank, Tromsø town centre – about 3 pm
We were fortunate to be looked after during our stay by Per Helge and Trond Håvard, who were very generous with their time and brimming with local knowledge. I have happy memories of being driven at daredevil speed by Trond Håvard in his rattling, Sherman tank of a van through valleys and up hills; waving at live deer, and clinging on for dear life…silently I thanked the inventor of seatbelts!

The tank!
We also got a private guided tour around the Tromsø Museum and the local art school, Kunstakadamiet i Tromsø. Towards the end of the week, we were invited to Per Helge’s apartment for dinner and conversation and baffled him by photographing his very photogenic kitchen post-meal.

As is always the way, we later found out there was a short spike of Aurora activity while we were indoors. Most likely it would have been too weak to see so we probably didn’t miss anything. Yes, I’m afraid we didn’t see one glimmer of the Northern Lights. The nearest was an artificial recreation of the Aurora Machine in the Tromsø Museum. I wish we’d been able to turn the real Aurora on with the press of a button…

Aurora Facticius
To see the full set of images from Tromsø, click here to be taken to the Flickr set.